Mountain Memories, Lanterns, and Silvered Falls
In the mists of northeastern Taiwan, two villages perch on different facets of memory—one steeped in mining echoes and mountain tea, the other offering silk skies and liquid thunder. Jiufen Shifen, both within easy reach of Taipei yet worlds apart in spirit, together form a day trip that unfolds like a cinematic tableau:
Jiufen, with its red lanterns, old-world teahouses, and golden past; and Shifen, with its train tracks of wishes and Taiwan’s own “Little Niagara.”
What follows is an immersive tribute—not only to places tourists already know, but to the layers of history, film, taste, and tradition that make Jiufen and Shifen resonate long after the ride back to Taipei. And yes, this is a guide designed to stand head and shoulders above, for anyone searching “Jiufen Taiwan” or “Shifen day trip.”
Read more about the history of Taiwan.
Jiufen: Stairways, Teahouses, and Gold-Dusted Memory
The Naming of Jiufen
It begins with its name: Jiufen (九份)—“nine portions.” In the isolated village of early Qing-era Taiwan, merchants would bring nine portions of cloth, rice, or salt to serve the nine original households. Outsiders began referring to the community as “Jiufen”—and the name stuck, long after gold replaced those humble provisions.
The Gold Rush and Japanese Legacy
In 1893, workers stumbled on gold near the new Taipei–Keelung railway; the ensuing rush transformed Jiufen from a sleepy hillside into a boomtown under Japanese colonial administration—its architecture, culture, and urban form shaped by the rush for fortune. Gold extraction continued into the mid-20th century, before the mines closed, and Jiufen slipped into a quiet decline.
A City of Sadness and the Magic of Film
” Between Hou Hsiao-hsien’s realism and Miyazaki’s myth, Jiufen found immortality.”
In 1989, Hou Hsiao-hsien’s A City of Sadness cast a long echo across the town. As one of the first films to address Taiwan’s February 28 Incident, it was also filmed in Jiufen—its narrow lanes, old houses, and atmospheric haze quietly reflecting a collective grief and memory that had long been unspeakable. That cinematic embrace initiated Jiufen’s transformation into a tourist destination.
And then came the Spirited Away myth: Jiufen’s red lanterns and winding alleyways drew unending comparisons to the world of Hayao Miyazaki’s film. Though Miyazaki has denied it, the notion persists in guidebooks and traveler imaginations, linking Jiufen irrevocably to Ghibli magic.
Today, Jiufen Old Street, also called Jishan Street, is a sun-warmed, lantern-lit artery of culture, commerce, and memory. Under strings of lights, vendors sell taro balls, peanut ice rolls, fish balls, Taiwanese sausage, and sweet potato balls—every bite anchoring you in local tradition.
Teahouse Reveries
Perched on ledges and stairways are teahouses that feel lifted from a dream:
🍵 A-Mei Tea House, Jiufen’s icon, offers sweeping views over Keelung Bay, red lanterns flickering as dusk gathers. While tourists wait in line, the atmosphere—the scent of oolong, the whisper of distant waves—remains ineffably sublime.
🏞️ Lesser known but equally atmospheric teahouses offer quiet respite on higher alleys, their wood interiors and steam-laced windows transporting you back in time.
Mining History: Museums and Ruins
For those curious about the town’s golden past, the Jiufen Goldore Museum chronicles extraction techniques and community stories. Nearby, ruins of processing works and the Golden Waterfall—where oxidized rocks flow like molten copper, offer echoes of transformation, both geological and economic.
Golden Waterfall and the Yin Yang Sea
Not far from Jiufen, the Golden Waterfall cascades down the hillside in streaks of amber and copper. The colors come not from gold itself but from the oxidation of minerals once processed in the area’s mines.
Just below the cliffs, the shoreline offers another geological surprise: the Yin Yang Sea. Here, currents mix yellow-tinged water with the blue of the Pacific, creating a striking contrast visible even from the mountain roads above. Both sights remind visitors that Jiufen’s story is not only cultural but also deeply geological—shaped by the same forces that once drew fortune seekers to its slopes.
Shengping Theater: Silver Screen in the Hillside
The Shengping Theater, originally established in 1916 and rebuilt in the 1930s, is one of the few old cinemas in Taiwan’s mining towns. After falling into disrepair, it received heritage designation and reopened in 2011. Today, it screens movies and hosts operatic performances in its wooden seats and cypress interiors—a cultural anchor amid nostalgia.
Hikes and Vistas
For panoramic reward, hike Keelung Mountain Trail. The ascent yields incredible viewpoints—sunset alights the town, the sea, and boats that sparkle like stars below.
Shifen: Sky Lanterns and Waterfall Thunders
Shifen Old Street and the Lantern Ceremony
Shifen Old Street traces the narrow tracks of once-essential railways. Here, visitors compose wishes on sky lanterns, choosing colors for health, fortune, career, or joy, and release them skyward as the flames lift hopeful messages toward the clouds. A quiet spiritual ritual wrapped in tourism’s glitter.
Shifen Waterfall: “Little Niagara of Taiwan”
A short walk from the lantern laden street lies Shifen Waterfall, a broad curtain of water that surges into a horseshoe basin—powerful, humid, thunderous. Often called Taiwan’s “Little Niagara,” its emerald mist and roaring cascade offer a refreshing contrast to Shifen’s warm lantern glow.
Beyond Borders: Easy Coupling of Jiufen Shifen
Together, Jiufen and Shifen make an unbeatable pair for an unforgettable day (or overnight) from Taipei:
🚌 Transport: Take TRA to Ruifang, then bus or taxi to Jiufen; from Ruifang or back via Pingxi Line for Shifen.
⌚️ Timing: Mornings in Shifen for cooling waterfall and quieter streets; afternoons up at Jiufen for teahouse glow and evening views.
🐱 Other Stops Nearby: Add Houtong Cat Village for feline charm or the gold-mining sites of Jinguashi for geological echoes.
😎 Seasonal Note: Jiufen and Shifen are at their misty, atmospheric best in winter (December–February), though rain rises in October–November.
Getting There Without the Hassle
Jiufen is well served by public buses from Ruifang and Keelung, but these can be slow and crowded, especially on weekends or during holidays. Parking is scarce and expensive, making self-driving a challenge. The most comfortable way to experience Jiufen Shifen, and the nearby sights is on a custom private tour with Justaiwantour, where a driver-guide handles the logistics and lets you focus on the views, the food, and the history.
Popular Travel Destination
Jiufen and Shifen are not mere tick-boxes on a Taiwan itinerary. They are layered memories, cinematic towns, human rituals, and natural wonders all in one. At Jiufen’s A-Mei teahouse, the sea waits beneath a canopy of lantern light; at Shifen, dreams drift aloft while water thunders below.
” Together, they speak of Taiwan’s heart—the quiet, the grand, the suspended, and the flowing.”
So whether you seek golden nostalgia, cinematic myth, teahouse reverie, or waterfall exhilaration—Jiufen Shifen deliver. And this is a story meant to outshine, in tone, in detail, and in digital resonance, any you have come across before.
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